By: Samie

Travel Date: June 4th, 2023

Total Honeymoon Travel Days: 7

Day 4

(Second Part of Norway in a Nutshell, Bergen-Voss-Gudvangen-Flåm-Myrdal-Oslo)

Waking up in the bed of unfamiliar home in a new city in a foreign country isn’t something that would sound comforting, but when the sun is coming out on what is almost guaranteed to be the best and most eventful day of a trip you have waited three whole years for, it is an extremely exciting awakening.

Our morning started around that same time as it had the last two days. My first alarm went off before 6:30, but I decided to wait until my second alarm about 15 minutes later. However, our departing train wasn’t until 8:29, so I comfortably snoozed for another 10 minutes before pulling myself out of our very cozy Bergen Airbnb bed. We got ready for the adventure ahead and packed up all our things since we were only there for the night.

We had discovered yesterday that our Airbnb was a decent stroll away from the Bryggen area and train station, so we made sure to give ourselves enough time to get where we needed to be without needing to rush. The walk was absolutely wonderful and stunning. Because we were on the move so early, the streets were empty and the city was quiet. It was a very different setting than the evening before. It made it very easy for us to take everything in as we made our way to the train station. Everything from the peaceful parks to the lush greenery to the colorful buildings to the eye-catching water features to the rolling hillsides were absolutely gorgeous. The walk didn’t feel as long this time because we had to pause so many times just to look around and take pictures. It made it much harder to leave, and we are definitely putting Bergen on our list of places we would like to revisit someday.

We arrived at Bergen’s architecturally stunning train station around 8:10, about a 20 minute walk from our Airbnb. Because it was a small station with limited train lines, we knew it wouldn’t be difficult finding which train was ours, so we got to relax and take a few pictures before needing to worry about being on the move again.

The train departed at exactly 8:29, and we were officially on our way across some of Norway’s most iconic and scenic countryside, and we were absolutely giddy with excitement.

The first stretch of our Norway in a Nutshell adventure was a 1 hour and 15 minute train ride to the city of Voss. It was a a quick ride in comparison to our 6 hour train ride the day before. There wasn’t a lot of variation in scenery since it was such a short trek either, so we simply relaxed and drifted in and out as we rumbled through the tree-filled hills to our next stop.

We pulled into the Voss train station at our expected 9:43 time. This next transition was the part we were most unsure about. We knew we would be transferring to a bus. Our documents had explained we would be exiting the train platform and that it would be about a 2 minute walk to where we were supposed to meet the bus. However, where we were supposed to walk to was a little unclear, despite the written directions and visual map that had been provided. The Voss train station had multiple layers, so we had to figure out how to get downstairs and then regain our bearings to follow the correct directions to our meet up point.

We definitely weren’t the only travelers on the Norway in a Nutshell tour, however, everyone else seemed just as unsure and befuddled as we were. There were several people that had their paperwork in hand and were trying to decipher what to do. We had also printed paper copies of all our tickets and travel information in case of an emergency, but we were using our digital copies, and we never did have to take out our hard copies. They were very prepared to scan and use the electronic copies, which was nice.

Based on the information we were looking at on our phones, we were supposed to find Platform B, Line 950 to Gudvangen. We were the first ones to find the signs that marked where we were supposed to be boarding our bus and stood next to it. Other travelers began to make their way over and form a line behind us (or at least for the most part). We learned that if you are a part of a large tour that is only somewhat traveling together and not led by a guide, people will just group up and many manners like making a proper line go out the window. Even though we were the first ones to line up, people forced their way in front of us, and we ended up not being the first ones to board the bus.

Anyway, there were no buses at our platform when we first arrived. There was a bus parked at a sign across the way, but it wasn’t at our marked meeting area, so Luke and I assumed it wasn’t our bus. Some of our fellow trip patrons were not as patient. We watched as at least 5 people walked over and asked the bus driver if that was our bus. He got so frustrated with grown adults not being able to read posted signs that he ended up closing the door to his bus. I can’t say that I blame him.

Our tickets said our bus departure from Voss wasn’t until 10:10, and sure enough, the buses pulled up around 10:00 for us to board. There ended up being 2 buses for our large group. Since we were right next to the platform sign, we boarded the first bus. Again, lines would suggest that since we were at the front, we would have gotten on the bus first. However, the door didn’t open right at the front of the line, so people just swarmed to the door, and the people that were closest to where the door opened were the ones the boarded first.

Despite a mildly frustrating boarding, we were seated on the correct bus on time and were ready to head to our next destination, so we really couldn’t complain. It was a 1 hour and 20 minute bus ride to Gudvangen. The scenery was still a lot of hills filled with full green trees, but there were more waterfalls and blooming flowers and rugged mountain stones as we moved into the spectacular and stunning Nærøydalen Valley.

From May to September, the buses pull off for an extra special stop and photo op at the Stalheim Hotel. What we thought at first would just be an extra special bonus stop ended up being one of our favorite moments of the entire trip.

The buses had to climb up a steep and winding road to get to the parking lot of the hotel. Once parked, we all made our way off the bus and through the lobby of the hotel, which was a fun side quest of its own! The lobby had a very traditional feel with wood paneling and many unique antiques for decor.

After exiting out the other side of the hotel, a walking path leads you down to a lookout over the valley. Before we even reached the cliff side view, we could tell we were in for a real treat. The view was the absolute definition of breath-taking. For the first few minutes, we just stood in awe. The indescribable landscape looked like a fairytale painting come to life. It seemed unreal in its beauty.

Once we were able to catch our breath, we began snapping some pictures, although even the best photographs were unable to capture how stunning this view really was. Luke’s family originates from Norway, and there is a photograph his grandparents have had that he and his family are very familiar with of the Norwegian landscape. I could see the familial emotions rise up in Luke’s eyes as he looked out over the valley because it was very similar to the photograph taken by his relatives and still hanging within his grandmother’s view, and here he was getting to experience it in person. It was a very magical moment.

After filling our camera rolls with many magnificent pictures of both the valley and the beauty of the cliff lookout itself, it was time to hop back on the bus and finish this next stretch of our journey to Gudvangen. Despite this being a huge highlight, there was still much more to see and experience and even more things to take our breath away and add to our list of favorites.

We arrived in Gudvangen at 11:30. The next leg of our tour was the part I was personally most excited for, a Fjord Cruise through the UNESCO-listed Nærøyfjord. However, our boat wasn’t scheduled to depart until 12:00 pm. Much of the crowd got in line to wait to board the ship right away. However, after our unsuccessful advantage of being at the front of the line to board the bus, we decided to explore the grounds for a little bit before getting in line. We got to enjoy the views from the dock and soak up some sunshine.

After getting nice and warm and taking both some aesthetic and fun and silly pictures, we joined in the queue to board our cruise ship. Despite being toward the end of the line, there was an ample amount of space on the ship for everyone. Most people made their way up to the top deck of the ship right away. However, we had a feeling it would get quite chilly up there for the duration of the 2 hour cruise, so we didn’t even attempt to find a spot up top. Instead, we found a cozy little corner looking out a window on the bottom deck, right next to the on-board cafe.

With our spot safely secured, we joined the line for food since it was lunch time. We treated ourselves to another set of Norwegian hot dogs, adorned with the delicious white hot dog sauce and other condiments of our choosing. We also got another Norway specialty, Kim’s chips. We had seen them around everywhere but had yet to try them for ourselves. Lastly, we of course had to get another Pepsi Max Mango to wash it all down. We settled back into our corner, let the sun’s rays warm us through the window, and watched as the ship pulled away from the dock for the 2 hour journey to Flåm.

We spent the first 45 minutes of our journey comfortably seated and taking in the views comfortably through our window. Just before we had boarded our cruise ship, people who weren’t a part of the Norway in a Nutshell tour and were just trying to get across the fjord had boarded their vehicles onto a ferry next to us. It was fun watching the ferry cruise by with the scenic mountains and trickling waterfalls as the backdrop.

After a while, we witnessed people making their way back inside from the front deck, and even a few from up top, as they got chilled, just like we expected they would. The front of the ship went from being packed with people to the point we couldn’t see through the bodies to being pretty much wide open. We seized the opportunity and made our way out to the deck to take some photos and enjoy the views front and center.

We had dressed up warm in preparation for some chilly fjord winds, but still felt our body temperature dropping as we soaked in the stunning views. It was easy to see why people had made their way inside after 45 minutes. However, by pure coincidence, we happened to have a prime spot as the cruise ship pulled up to the main attraction waterfall for the ship. We went from being some of the only ones on the deck taking pictures to our hearts content to being completely packed in and surrounded by people who had come out to see the waterfall face to face as well.

Luckily, since we were already stationed out there, we were able to get our pictures right away, elbow our way out of the crowd and warm up back inside for a little bit before we were ready to make our way out to the deck again. Once I had feeling in my fingers and ears again and the people had once again dissolved, we made our way back outside to enjoy the experience from the deck for the rest of the cruise. I got to stand right up against the railing and look down directly into the shimmering brisk water of the fjord below. We watched the birds swoop and soar around us and heard them crying out for any extra food. We witnessed the surrounding mountains rise and fall on either side with the speckling trees ebb and surge depending on the landscape.

There was one pull-up stop before reaching our final destination where a few other ship patrons made their graceful exit to a nearby cute and quaint village. The colorful homes scattered across the modest hill up against a large mountain cliff was something out of a picture book. You could see the streets winding and twisting around nature instead of forging through. It all seemed very simple and natural and wonderful.

The boat pulled away and was once again making its way through the fjord. After our stop at the Stalheim Hotel, we thought it would be difficult to find something as awe-inspiring, but the fjord cruise lived up to all expectations. I had built it up pretty high in my head, especially after having to wait 3 years to fulfill this journey, but it completely delivered. While the Stalheim lookout was still pretty high up there, the fjord cruise was probably still my favorite part of our Norway in a Nutshell tour. About 40 minutes later, we were notified of our impending docking in Flåm, so we made our way back inside to retrieve the rest of our items and get ready to disembark.

We arrived at Flåm right on schedule at 2:00 and made our way off our beloved cruise ship. Our next scheduled departure on the Flåm Railway wasn’t until 4:00, so we had some time to explore the charming fjord town. It was perfectly cultivated for tourists enjoying the Norway in a Nutshell tour. It was filled with souvenir shops, outdoor market booths, restaurants, and food trucks. Right away, we noticed a bakery and made that priority stop number one.

Stopping in here first ended up being the right call as the shop filled up rapidly. The displays filled with fresh pastries are what immediately caught my eye, and some savory pizza right out of the oven pulled Luke in. One pastry called a skoleboller (school bun) immediately grabbed my attention. It was obvious this was a popular treat because many of them filled the case. However, another pastry had me drooling. It was a delectably golden bun filled with custard, fruit, and streusel. There was only one of these left. Luckily, we were next in line, so it was sure to be ours! Then, the worst but what should have been expected at this point happened. A couple that had just made their way into the bakery decided they should be the next ones to order and squeezed in ahead of us. If they took that last pastry that was rightfully ours, I was absolutely ready to throw hands. Fortunately, they got one of the skoleboller treats but not the bærbolle, so no violence was needed.

We made our way out of the now fully packed bakery and found an open picnic bench in a designated eating area to enjoy our well-deserved goodies. We scarfed down the light yet crispy slice first and then had a tough decision on which tasty sweet to enjoy first. We settled on the skoleboller since it had a hefty coating of coconut that would be difficult to savor on the train without making an enormous mess. Even after one bite, I could tell this was my new favorite food. The bun was sweet and light and fluffy, and it was filled with a creamy custard and finished off with the perfect natural shredded coconut, a flavor I already adore. Whenever asked what our favorite food we tried during our trip was, this pastry’s name flies out of my mouth without any hesitation.

We decided to save the bærbolle for later and take some time to do some souvenir shopping! There were a plethora of shops, and while many of them had some souvenirs that were similar, there was a surprising variety between each shop, despite some of them being right next door to each other. We found several different items that tickled our fancy, including a commemorative magnet and an old black and white photograph print.

After shopping to our hearts’ content, we were ready to find seats on our next train, the historic Flåmsbana or Flåm Railway. We had extensively looked into this trip and had read on one of the blogs we came across that, while both sides of the train had stunning views, the right side of the train was the slightly better option. There were a a couple of seats next to open windows or windows that could open. We had also read that while, yes, these open windows would provide excellent photo opportunities, other people would also flock to these areas and crowd your space, and that was simply something we were not interested in.

We got to encounter more tourist impoliteness as two younger girls boarded the train. The side that we were sitting on was the three-seater bench facing the back of the train. Across was a bench for two facing the front of the train. One of the girls sat across from us while her friend, someone she was clearly traveling with, grabbed a bench of her own in a different area of the train. Both girls set their bags in the open seat so that no one else could sit there. Fortunately, all other passengers found open seats somewhere on the train, but we were still appalled by the impolite travel behavior.

The next stretch of our journey to Myrdal was only an hour train ride, which went extra fast because there was so much to see and take in! One thing to note about this train ride, because it is an old and historic mode of transportation, it is extremely loud. With the windows down, the sound of the train on the tracks screamed into the cars constantly. It didn’t bother us too much because it was all part of the experience in our opinion, but there were a few other passengers that were not big fans. They wanted to close the windows but a few other passengers on board wanted the windows down to look out and take pictures, and it was a bit of a verbal dispute. However, it ended peacefully as they agreed to put the windows up when we were going through the mountain tunnels when it was especially loud and echoey and only pull the windows down when they wanted to take a picture.

The curving railway and stunning mountain landscape made for some of my favorite pictures I got on our journey, even with all the other stellar views we’d taken in throughout our trek. The lush green with the stark contrast of the cold stone of the mountain and the industrial contradiction of the train had me completely enthralled.

The one big view that was on the left side of the train was a zig zag trail down the mountain with 21 hairpin bends, but we were still able to get a picture through the parallel window. We could have gotten up, as many of the passengers were, but it wasn’t worth it to us. We would’ve had to elbow our way through the tight groups trying to get to the open windows, so we were very pleased with our decision to avoid those seats as the people crowding around them were completely oblivious to the personal space of the travelers already seated there.

There was an extra special stop before arriving at the Myrdal train station at the Kjosfossen Waterfall. Not only is this a large and gorgeous waterfall tumbling a total of 738 feet, but we got to experience a unique and fun performance there as well.

After being stopped at the waterfall for a few minutes, traditional music began to play, and we saw actors dressed as legendary Huldra, or seductive forest creatures in Scandinavian folklore, dancing in and around the buildings near the waterfall. Legend says that the enticing song and dance tempts and lures visitors into the forest to stay forever. We can’t say we weren’t tempted ourselves. It would be a pretty nice place to live out our days. However, it was time to board the train again and continue on our way back to Oslo.

We arrived at the Myrdal train station at our expected time, and said goodbye to the historic Flåm Railway as we got ready to wait for our last and final train that was part of our Norway in a Nutshell adventure, the Bergen Railway.

Our train had pulled in around 5:00, and our next train was originally scheduled to depart at 5:40. Since we had a little bit of wait time, we decided to treat ourselves to some ice cream treats. While we enjoyed our creamy desserts, we got an update on the station board that our train was delayed 15 minutes. Then, a little while later, we got another update that our train was delayed another 15 minutes. This meant that we ended up waiting around for a total of over an hour for our last train back to Oslo. Our final train was the longest one of the day, which a travel time of 5 hours. We enjoyed some of the views, like the icy desolate mountain tops but mostly got to take it easy after our very full and busy day. We had taken in so much and loved every last second, but we were also ready to wind down.

It was after 10:30 when we arrived back to our temporary home. We weren’t quite ready to call it a night because we wanted a little bit of relaxing time, so closed out our night with some snacks and a movie. We had a much more easy-going and open day ahead of us the next day, so we didn’t need to worry too much about getting to bed right away which was nice.

Overall, when asked about our favorite part about visiting Norway, we agree that Norway in a Nutshell was a worth-while investment and something we would strongly recommend to anyone looking to spend some time in this stunning and amazing country!