By: Samie

Travel Dates: November 23rd-29th, 2024

Day 3

(Sunrise in Joshua Tree National Park, Skull Rock, Breakfast & Shopping in Joshua Tree, Afternoon at Airbnb, Pioneertown, Supper at Pappy & Harriet’s, Outdoor Tubs)

As mentioned in our previous post, we had turned in early the night before in preparation to be up just before the sunrise this morning, our third day of our trip! This meant setting our alarms for just before 5:30 in the morning. Despite this being 7:30 our time, we had a good couple of days to adjust to our current time zone, so it felt like 5:30 to us. Luke is a naturally early riser, but for me, an early morning has to have a good reason.

Fortunately, we did have a very good purpose for waking up as early as we were while on a vacation. We wanted to wake up just before sunset in order to make the 30 minute drive from our Airbnb into Joshua Tree National Park and arrive at the Cholla Cactus Garden right as the sun rose up above the mountains and made the fuzzy “teddy bear” cacti glow.

We couldn’t help but enjoy some of the beginning glows of the sunrise from our Airbnb because it was a warm and comforting fire that burned the entire horizon. A house not too far from where we were staying had roosters, so we enjoyed their natural alarm to notify us that the day was in fact beginning. The air was cool but gentle against our skin. We were bringing some sweatshirts in case the temperature grazing our skin developed too many goosebumps, but it was an absolutely phenomenal kick off to our morning!

By the time we departed from our Airbnb to start the drive into Joshua Tree National Park itself, it was around 6:20 in the morning. This put our arrival through the entrance of the park and over to the Cholla Cactus Garden at around an hour later, around 7:20. The sun had come up a little higher than we had originally planned, but it was still early enough to bask the cacti in it’s soft, early glow.

We had read from several fellow travel bloggers that sunrise or sunset would be the best and most beautiful time to walk around the unique desert garden. We decided on sunrise so that we would be more likely to have more of the park to ourselves, as in our travels, we have come to discover that the earlier you get to places, the less the crowds.

Another thing of note while reading up on the Cholla Cactus Garden is that, while they look like a very cuddly and soft plant, the teddy-bear cholla cactus is a very deceiving foe. When touched, the barbs detach from the cactus body easily. Unfortunately, once attached to skin or clothes, the persistent hitchhikers do not dislodge nearly as easily.

This meant that while we were looking forward to wandering through the society of gorgeous cacti, we had to be careful not to actively touch or bump any of them.

We didn’t have to walk very far into the garden to be in awe of the unique desert beauty and dusky shimmering light cast by the still-rising sun. We began filling our camera rolls before the sun began burning brighter and shifting the glow to a blaze.

Desert vibes are a very alluring aesthetic for us, despite us residing in about as Midwest, smack dab in the middle of the north part of the country as we can be. We dressed to blend into these vibes and aimed to collect some pictures of us living our very best desert life.

It was extremely easy to flood our rolls because every view was stunning, and it was easy to capture pictures of both us and nature looking our best! There were several walkways through the garden to help avoid some of the deeper trenches and dips throughout the stroll through the garden. These provided even more gorgeous backdrops for some fun photographs.

We did, in fact, have the park to ourselves for the majority of our time walking and snapping images throughout the garden. Toward the end of our time, another family was making their way around the desert garden, and when we made our way back to the car to move on with our journey through the rest of the park, a few more vehicles were also pulling into the lot next to the Cholla Cactus Garden. We had hit it perfectly, as we had intended!

It was time to explore more of the 795,156 acres of the park. Another are we had on our list of what we wanted to see while in the park was an area with large rock formations, specifically one that had take on the name “skull rock”, a naturally eroded rock that, over time, has taken on the resemblance of a skull. It has water and wind carved eye sockets within the granite piece that already held the oval shape of a human head.

In order to reach this site, we continued on the main east to west park road, driving past groves of Joshua Trees that have given the park its name, both large and small alike. There is a pull-off for parking across the road from the area in which the rock formation was located. All we had to do was cross the very empty and currently low-traveled road, to a well-marked trail. It was a short and non-strenuous hike up and over to where the large, empty eyes came into view and followed us around the curve to where it sat, watching arriving visitors.

The granite possessed an unexpected texture as we grasped and climbed our way up and around skull rock. It was much more puckered and pocketed than we expected. Many rocks have their share of bumps and grooves, but this was even more pronounced and exaggerated. It was textured similar to sandpaper, but with large enough gauges not to scuff up our hands or peel at our skin.

We decided to explore and hike around the rock formations some more! I was wearing sandals to match my dress, which aren’t known to be the best hiking attire. However, it was still manageable in what I was wearing, so I can only imagine what a fun and adventurous playground it would make for actual hikers. We were able to climb up and through crevices and onto the tops of some of the clusters of these rocks. Despite not being dressed or prepared for hiking, we were still able to travel a decent way and enjoy our time trekking the terrain.

Because the road was also still empty, we were even able to capture some pictures walking down the vast and open road. We felt like we had jumped right off of a music album cover! Even our rental car looked like it had been driven right out of a commercial, so we gave our handsome little Malibu its own photo shoot as we walked across the road.

We decided to check out what the view across the road looked like, so before hopping back into the vehicle to carry on, we explored the other side of the road we had already parked along. There were some large Joshua Trees just waiting to greet us, so we made sure to grab some photos with our gentle desert giants. We also climbed up on some more granite rock formations to gather in the view of a huge expanse of the park!

Although we are sure that in the overall space of the park, we had explored very little, we also felt like we’d had the opportunity to experience the parts of the park we had intended to, at least for this time around. It was definitely a gorgeous park that we would enjoy revisiting if the opportunity showed itself another time, just as it had in this instance.

We decided it was time to head into the CDP (census-designated place) of Joshua Tree, as it was well-past coffee time. The area has their very own local coffee company, sensibly named the Joshua Tree Coffee Company. We couldn’t miss the chance to pop into one of their coffee shops to sample a taste of their desert-brewed coffee as we found a surprisingly good parking spot a little before 9:00 am. The outside reflected the eclectic desert style, but the inside was very calming and modern. The brisk morning had chilled me enough to convince me to order a hot coffee option. Luke went with his usual go-to iced coffee.

With coffees in hand, we began to walk the strip and scope out our potential shopping and food agenda. There was an especially intriguing store that lured us in right away, and we couldn’t wait until after eating to check it out. It was a very fun and vibey shop called Coyote Corner. We genuinely believe we could’ve spent an entire afternoon browsing, shopping around, and taking in every little thing this shop had to offer.

They had EVERYTHING! From T-shirts and hoodies to gorgeous ceramic mugs and cups to locally made jewelry to rocks and crystals to magnets to cactus and desert candies to retro candy and toys to posters to loads and loads of locally made trinkets, clothing, decorations, prints, and so much more! Despite it not being an overly large building, it was jam-packed and full with a seemingly endless amount of items that grabbed our attention. It would have been much too easy to over-spend and fly way over budget, so we had to rein it in a little bit. We definitely still spent plenty.

In the end, we were picked out things such as a Joshua Tree ceramic mug to add to our travel mug collection, a gorgeous ceramic and gemstone dish, some prickly pear candy, a Joshua Tree magnet to add to our travel magnet collection, a Joshua Tree pin, and a beautiful canvas print representation of Joshua Tree. I’m sure there were plenty more little collectibles and items that we couldn’t help adding to our hands and arms before we finally decided to check out before things got out of control.

After already having one little shopping spree under our belt, we had already worked up an appetite and were ready for some brunch! There was a place we had come across during our research called JT Country Kitchen. It was definitely already bustling, but since there were only two of us, we only had to wait a short time before being seated.

We started with drinks. Luke wanted to try one of their Micheladas, and they had a seasonal Prickly Pear Mimosa that I just had to try! For food, I decided to indulge on the sweeter side with some cinnamon swirl French toast with a side of hash browns because a helping of homemade hash browns are hard to beat and remind me of when I was kid and my grandpa (who is now passed on) would make hash browns from potatoes we had helped him pick from the garden! Luke went with the Denver Omelette that came with a side of breakfast potatoes (he also went with hash browns), toast, and he also couldn’t resist a big “world famous” pancake as well.

After indulging almost to the point of bursting, it was time to walk off all those delicious and much-enjoyed calories with some more shopping. The strip along that main road was absolutely PACKED with shops for us to explore. It was far too easy to fill our time popping in, out, and through any building that called to us.

Even if not everything was our style or caught our interest, it was still amazing to see how much unique and local culture was packed onto just one road! Some of the shops carried true vintage garb that was very thoroughly and pain-stakingly hand chosen, which also meant it was also very much out of the price range we intended on spending for clothes.

Other shops focused more on locally sourced and hand-crafted items like jewelry, pottery, and decor. Their inside aesthetics were usually a mix of the desert vibes but with a more modern flare as well. Even other still embraced more of the eccentric style and were filled with eclectic knickknacks, apparel, and vibes. These stores would hold things sporting aliens or bowls filled with crystals.

While not as big of a hit as Coyote Corner had been, we were still able to find a few little trinkets and items that were affordable and also fun, quirky, or beautiful enough for us to purchase. Our souvenir collection grew to include more stickers with a variety of vibes, a few artistic gemstone pieces, a suncatcher, a pair of vintage sunglasses, a fun astrology motel keychain, and an adorable wooden and hand-painted bobble head armadillo. We almost invested in one of their big, cozy desert blankets, but we weren’t quite sure how we would be able to squeeze it into our suitcase to bring home.

After nearly shopping until we dropped and thoroughly exploring every shop that lured us in, it was time to grab some lunch and make our way back to our Airbnb for a little while, as we still had an entire evening agenda yet to accomplish. We swung into a place called the Roadrunner Grab + Go. They have house-made take-away sandwiches, salads, coffee, and more like it. It makes stopping in to grab lunch quick, easy, but also fresh!

Luke picked out a curry chicken salad wrap, and I went with a plain bagel with cream cheese. We were in and out quickly, and made our way back to the car to head back to our home away from home so we could eat our lunch in our pajamas and curled up on the couch with some Netflix playing on my iPad.

Since we had left Joshua Tree a little after 2:00, we arrived back at our desert home around 2:45. We quickly swapped our picture-taking clothes for the most comfortable ones we had packed and slumped onto the couch with our wrap and bagel, and a few of the chips and snacks we had picked up at Ralph’s before leaving Los Angeles.

While I’m already a pretty big bagel and cream cheese fan, I hadn’t expected anything spectacular when I had picked one out for lunch. I was simply in the mood for a good old bagel. However, to my absolute delight, it was probably the best bagel and cream cheese that I had ever had! When originally looking into traveling for a 30th birthday adventure, New York had been our destination of choice, due to that being the set location of the 13 Going on 30 film. One of the reasons I thought I would enjoy New York City is because they are well-known for their bagels. Who would have thought that despite changing our travel location to the complete opposite coast, I would still end up having my desired mind-blowing bagel and cream cheese!

For dessert, we had to try out the cubes of prickly pear candy we had picked up. They were an extremely alluring shade of purple and gelatinous, like a gummy. Their texture, however, was more grainy and sugary than gelatin. They were very sweet but with a unique flavor! They won’t be making my top ten list of sweets by any means, but they were still very good and a fun little local treat we enjoyed sampling!

We spent the next 2 hours relaxing, dozing in the sun both in the hammocks and up in the lookout tower, scrolling, watching Netflix, listening to music on the record player, and just soaking up some quiet time in our own little desert oasis. While not overwhelmingly hot, being on the go since before dawn had still managed to take a decent amount out of us, so were grateful for a little time to recover and recuperate.

As things came full circle, and we watched the sun began to descend instead of watching crest the horizon, we decided it was time to once again put some real clothes on and venture out into the area. Our evening plans included visiting Pioneertown and enjoying a dinner at Pappy & Harriet’s.

Pioneertown was built to be an active movie set back in the late 1940’s and 1950’s, when western films and television series were the up and coming rage. More than 50 films and shows were filmed within the established “Living Breathing Movie Set” within the 40’s and 50’s, and over 200 productions in town. As the golden age of western flicks came to an end, so did the bountiful production work that had taken place in town.

Today, the town’s prominent western facade still remains, and is still a popular tourist attraction. It holds retail stores that sell art, pottery, soaps, leathers, and clothing. Some shops are simply fronts for old western buildings used in filming such as banks, saloons, and mining companies. During the summer months, we heard, they will even act out ol’ western gunfights and shootouts.

Along with all the old western fun and shops, there are a couple eatery options as well. There’s The Red Dog Saloon, which is more of a community bar and seating establishment, and Pappy & Harriet’s, more of a sit down restaurant that also often hosts live music.

Upon arrival, we had first stopped at Pappy & Harriet’s, our original dinner destination, only to find that even for two of us, there was about an hour wait. We put our names down just in case, but made the walk over to The Red Dog Saloon to see if maybe they had a better time wait for seating. Along the way, we popped into several of the shops to check them out. The old western aesthetic that each building took on no matter what they were selling was definitely an enjoyable and unique experience. However, nothing in particular spoke to us, and we reached the end of the street where The Red Dog Saloon was located.

As soon as we stepped in, we realized this was not the place for two introverts to be attempting to eat. It was open, loud, and friendly, like everyone was open to conversing and drinking with one another. While this may sound like the ideal eating experience for some, it was not an inviting experience for us personally. We turned back, and went to sit in our rental car for a while because with the sunset had come the chilly desert night, and we were both quite cold.

The hostess at Pappy & Harriet’s had told us to check in after 45 minutes, so after sitting in the car for only about 15, as we had eaten up the rest of the time wait walking through shops and to and from The Red Dog Saloon, we made our way back inside. Sure enough, they were able to seat us!

We got seated in a table near a back corner of the restaurant. The walls were completely covered with music posters, western movie posters, western decor, and license plates from all around the United States. Somehow, despite all odds, our table was seated directly under a license plate from South Dakota! It was meant to be!

Our server’s name was Will, and even though it was obvious that it was an extremely busy and hectic evening, he was incredibly kind and cordial and easy to converse with! We each started with a cocktail and one other drink to sip on while we waited for our food. For cocktails, I got a Rosy Boa (Blue Ice Vodka, cranberry, grapefruit, and soda), and Luke started with a Gold Rush (Redwood Empire Bourbon, local raw honey, and lemon). For our side drinks, Luke got a lager called Offshoot, and I went with a cream soda. I got a pulled pork BBQ sandwich with a side of fries, and Luke got a side of Mac and cheese with his tri-tip sirloin sandwich.

The ambiance was busy but not overly loud. Everyone enjoying the company of those they were seated with. Despite some tables being in close quarters, people content to be in their own little bubbles of conversation. The boozy beverages left us feeling flushed and content, and even our silences had a feeling of comfort and lightness. I can’t say the food was over-the-top tasty, but it was definitely a good meal and good atmosphere, and we enjoyed the dinner at this Pioneertown hub very much!

Walking back out into the brisk night was actually refreshing instead of a pin-pricking chill now. The stars speckling the blanket of darkness hugging the horizon glittered and dazzled. There was a small little stand-alone building just off the parking lot behind Pappy & Harriet’s. The petite yard leading up to it was filled with both hanging and outdoor decor and trinkets. The inside of the store was just one room, and its shelves were filled with more macabre tchotchkes and baubles. Things like skeletons, grim decor, and crystals permeated our vision.

The darker depictions weren’t really up our ally, but they had some funny stickers, crystals, and mystery bags, small ones for $5 and large ones for $10. We picked out a few of the stickers, one of the crystal stacks, and a small mystery bag while we chatted up the very friendly vendor. Then we wished her a good night and made our way back to our rental car to make the lovely drive back to our Airbnb.

Despite an already very full day, we weren’t quite ready for it to be over. Instead, with it being our last night staying in this comfortable little dwelling before heading back into the bustling city of Los Angeles, we decided to take full advantage of a couple of the special amenities available to us!

Even though we hadn’t packed swimsuits, that wasn’t going to stop us from trying out the big double cowboy tubs! While we waited for the large tubs to fill with hot water, we lounged on the outdoor sofa and soaked up the heat of the fire pit. Because the tubs were so large, they did take a while to fill up, but luckily, we weren’t in any rush.

Once the tubs were filled as much as they could without the water sloshing out the safety holes placed in the sides, it was time to hop in! Since we were out in the middle of nowhere and there was a washing machine and dryer in the lookout tower, we hopped into the tubs in just our undergarments. The cool, crisp, dessert night chilled our cheeks and faces while the hot water in the tubs warmed the rest of our bodies. We each sipped on a drink of our choice to help keep our insides chilled and comfortable while we simply relaxed and soaked in the tubs while also soaking up the sounds of nature and the night.

Sometimes the spans of time were filled with conversation from the day or what was on our minds. Sometimes it was simply filled with the music of the night. Either way, the night slipped away around us, and it was time to drain the tubs and call it a day so that we could still adventure out early tomorrow before saying our goodbyes to the Joshua Tree area. We tossed our now very wet clothes into the available dryer and instead tucked into our warm and cozy pajamas. Pruny and relaxed, we slithered into bed with warm skin and full hearts. Joshua Tree, however, will probably keep a piece of them in its grip until we get the chance to visit again.